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人人书 > 杂志 > Cizhong: Inheriting Classical French Winemaking

Cizhong: Inheriting Classical French Winemaking

时间:2024-11-05 04:30:44

Inthe1940s,duringtheChinesePeople鈥檚WarofResistanceagainstJapaneseAggression,AmericansoldiersstationedinYunnantookpictureswithclergymenfromtheCizhongchurch.TheLancangRiver,knownastheMekongRiverinSoutheastAsia,flowsthroughtheMeiliCanyoninsouthwesternChina鈥檚YunnanProvince,nexttowhichisCizhongVillageinDeqinCounty,YunnanProvince.Withanaveragealtitudeof1,800meters,thisvillage,hiddeninthemountains,ishometoanabundanceofethnicgroups.Some100yearsago,manyEuropeanmissionariesandforeignexplorerswerealreadymakingthetoughtriptoreachthevillage.Today,manystilldeemitapeacefulutopiatuckedawayfromtheoutsideworld.

MyimpressionofCizhongstartedwithaglassofwine.InthehomeofaTibetanlocalIcalled鈥淯ncleAdro,鈥滻wasserveddelicioushomemadewine.UncleAdrohasa0.27-hectarevineyardwherehegrows鈥渞osehoney,鈥漚nancientFrenchgrapevarietysuitableforbothwinemakingandeating.ThegrapewasintroducedtoYunnanProvincebyFrenchmissionariesintheearly19thCentury.

BothUncleAdroandhissonareCatholic.HenamedhissonZhangAwei,atransliterationofthebaptismalname鈥淒avid.鈥漊ncleAdro鈥檚daughter-in-law,however,isabelieverofTibetanBuddhism.鈥淪uchanarrangementisquitecommoninCizhong,鈥漧aughsAdro.鈥淢anyfamilieshavememberswithdifferentreligiousbeliefslivingtogetherunderthesameroof.鈥滾ocalvillagersconsiderreligiousbeliefsapersonalchoiceandneverinterferewiththepracticesofothers.Whenthevillage鈥檚CatholicshostweddingsandfuneralsfeaturingCatholicrituals,TibetanBuddhistsjointhemandofferhelp,andviceversa.ThephilosophyofCizhongisthatallthingsareinterrelatedandshoulddevelopandprospertogether.

WineisanecessityforstandardCatholicrituals.ItshistoryinCizhongiscloselytiedtothepopularizationanddevelopmentofCatholicismintheregion.Statisticsshowthatatpresent,abouttwothirdsofCizhonglocalsconsiderthemselvesCatholic,andtheremainingonethirdismostlyTibetanBuddhist.

Thecentury-oldCizhongCatholicChurchisanimportantwindowtolocalhistory.Localssaythatthevineyardnexttothechurchproducesatime-honoredspeciesofgrapefromFrance鈥檚Bordeauxregion.Today,thegrapevarietyisextinctinitshomecountry,butcontinuestogrowandflourishinremotesouthwesternChina.

Atthehighestpointofthechurch鈥檚mainstructureisamassivecross.However,itcombinesWesternarchitecturalelementssuchasabelltower,cross,andarchedchapelwithChineseelementsincludingapavilion,gatetowerwithupturnedeavesandflyingrafters.Consideringsuchtastefulfusioninitsarchitecture,itisnowonderthatCatholicismandTibetanBuddhismhavepeacefullycoexistedforsolonginthearea.TheCizhongCatholicChurchcombinesWesternarchitecturalelementssuchasabelltower,cross,andarchedchapelwithChineseelementsincludingapavilion,gatetowerwithupturnedeavesandflyingrafters.

TheCizhongCatholicChurchsitsinavineyard.Localsbelievethatthevineyardproducesatime-honoredspeciesofgrapefromFrance'sBordeauxregion.

OnSundays,CatholicsgatherinthechurchandsinghymnsinTibetan.

StoriesfromtheBiblearepaintedonthewallofthechurch,withrefinedcolors.

Forkids,thechurchmeansfunratherthansolemnity.IhadthepleasureofmeetingXiaoJieyi,an88-year-old鈥渨alkingdictionary鈥漺hovolunteersattheCizhongCatholicChurch.ThemanspeaksfluentMandarin,Tibetan,French,Latin,andtwootherChineseethniclanguages鈥擭axiandLisu.InthebookAConciseHistoryofCatholicisminCizhong,whichhecompiledinhisyoungeryears,XiaocarefullylistedtheLatinnameofeveryforeignmissionarytovisit.

Almosteveryhouseholdinthevillagemakesitsownwine.IwasofferedanotherglassbyAustin,bishopoftheCizhongCatholicChurch.In1996,hestayedforatimeattheYanjingCatholicChurchinMarkamCounty,TibetAutonomousRegion,tolearnwinemakingfromaseniornun.

Austin鈥檚winefeaturestraditionalFrenchwinemakingtechniques.GrapesproducedinCizhongareonlythesizeoffingernailsandtasteabitsour.Winemadewiththesegrapestastesrichwithlastingflavor.Localsusuallymakewineforprivateuseortreatingguests.Sometouristsalsobuyafewbarrels.Sincewinemakingrecipesdifferabitfromfamilytofamily,thetasteofeachisslightlydifferent.

HowdidtheforeignmissionariesofacenturyagomanagetoplanttherootsofCatholicismsodeeplyinthesteepmountains?

AustinhypothesizesthatwhentheFrenchmissionariesfirstarrivedintheareasaroundtheLancangRivertopreachtheirreligion,theyperformedmanycharitableactssuchasestablishingschools,providingmedicalservices,caringforseniorswithoutfamilyandbringinguporphans.Suchselflessactswonthemimmensetrustandagreatreputationamongthelocals.

Butperhapsmoreimportantly,earlymissionarieswereallknowledgeableandcharismatic.PreservedmanuscriptsintheDeqinCountyLibrary,whichwerewrittenbythemissionaries,attesttothis.AccordingtoXiaoJieyi,FrenchmissionaryFrancisGore,whosuccessfullygraftedtheFrenchgrape鈥渞osehoney鈥漷oawildlocalgrapeinthe1930s,wasahighly-educatedman.HeexcelledattheTibetanlanguageandeventranslatedCatholicclassicsintoTibetanalongsideauthoringTibetandictionaries.AnotherFrenchmissionarynamedGeorgesAndr茅wasanoutstandingengineer.Inthe1940s,Andr茅oversawtheconstructionofaroutefromCizhongtotheNujiangRiver.AndhedesignedtheLiutongjiangchainbridgetocompleteacrucialroutefromYunnantoTibet.

ThemosthistoricchurchalongtheLancangRiver,theCizhongCatholicChurchisunderprovincialandstateprotection.MassisheldeverySundayinthechurch.Atabout9:00a.m.,CatholicsfromvariousethnicgroupsincludingNaxi,TibetanandLisufilein.YaoFei,thecurrentpriest,greetsthemonebyone.YaotookofficeinFebruary2008tobecomethefirstfull-timeChinesepriestinthechurchsincetheforeignmissionariesleftin1951.

At10:00a.m.,morethan100CatholicsgathertosinghymnsinTibetan.LocalssaidthatatimportantreligiousfestivalssuchasChristmasandEaster,CatholicsfromCiguandBadong,twonearbyvillages,alsomakethetriptothevillage.Sometimes,morethan1,000peopleattendholidayevents.MassinCizhongismoreexcitingthansolemn.Kidsmayplayaroundandbabiescryintheirparents鈥檃rms,butwhenthesingingstarts,allthenoisesmeltaway.
   

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